Thursday, May 7, 2009

The Max Burger Fatty Melt experience

For those not in the know (or from out of town), Max Burger, in addition to being the latest offering from the slightly ubiquitous Max Restaurant Group, is West Hartford's newest burger joint. With its opening, we West Hartford-ites can now choose from three "burger dedicated" restaurants located within a mile and a half of each other (with Plan B and The Counter completing the trifecta). Oh, and then there's Red Robin, but I wouldn't really count that place.

Last night, the Professor and I stopped into Max Burger for dinner. I was instantly struck by the decor, which, to me, rang in as "calculated casual." That's not to say the place wasn't nice. It just felt like someone in the planning room said, "How can we, you know, slum it down a bit while staying classy?" Then someone else said, "How about old-timey milk glasses for water? And we'll have the waiters wear jeans!"

But we weren't there for the decor. We were in for the food. And, let me tell you, the burger I ordered may have been one of the most decadent sandwiches I have ever eaten.

It was called the Fatty Melt. An 8 oz. burger with cheese served between two grilled cheese sandwiches, it was a messy mouthful. Oh, and did I mention that one grilled cheese had tomato and the other was filled with bacon?

Yowza! What a burger!

The Professor got the Inside Out burger, which had a cheese center. I have to say, hers was cooked more to order than mine, but they were both delicious and were served with pickles, house fries and a garlic aioli for dipping.

We finished with the house whoopie pies. While quite tasty, the cake was a bit dry.

As we drove home, our stomachs full, we debated if Max Burger was "better" than its competition. Our conclusions were mixed. In my opinion, Max Burger will never have the neighborhood feel of Plan B. Perhaps this is because of its high class upbringing, as a fair amount of the customers looked as if they would normally be at Max's Oyster Bar or Max Downtown, but "wanted to see how the peasants ate." (A good example of this was the guy sitting at the table next to me, who The Professor noticed made an exaggerated eye lift when I announced, not terribly loudly, that I had eaten everything on my plate. Of course, he then proceeded to cut his burger in half - cardinal sin - and eat portions of it with a fork).

But as I said earlier, who cares about the decor, right? The Fatty Melt is a foodie's dream come true and the type of burger that can make a place famous.

So, is Max the best burger place? I'm going to have to say that I can't say. The sandwiches are wonderful, but are in almost every way similar to Plan B (sans the extra flair). And the menu certainly doesn't give you the fun options that The Counter offers, but that's to be expected. However, there's something oddly unique at Max Burger that makes its existence make sense. I guess you'll have to try it for yourself.

Max Burger can be found on LaSalle Road in West Hartford. 

4 comments:

AmyBergquist said...

Huh, I liked Plan B's bacon cheese burger much better than the Fatty Melt. The bread got all soggy on the Fatty (which I found gross, who wants to hold on to wet bread? forks are a definite no-no, I will give you that) and I like the tastiness of the beef better at Plan B.

Ben said...

See, and I was kind of digging the sloppiness of the Fatty. I swear my napkin was opaque by the time I finished :) It was a full-body experience meal. And you have to admire the double grilled cheese as a bun.

I think the beef is pretty similar, though I may give Max a slight (we're talking a sliver here) edge.

But Plan B still feels more like "my" burger place. They won't lose any of our business.

Anonymous said...

I ate there last night. I expected to have a good meal and good experience which I did. The food is solid, the service was ok, yet nothing was a stand out for me. The server didn’t really know anything about the beers on draft. I asked for an IPA and they gave me the Max no name beer thing (a lager). The menu felt like bits and pieces of all the Max stores married with Counter burger to try and recreate Plan B. I didn't find anything exceptional, fun or different other than the fatty melt. Which I have to agree was a delicious heart attack. I thought it was a very creative sandwich by the Max group until I got home and Google it, then noticed some angry blogger on a hamburger today claiming that it was a rip off.

http://aht.seriouseats.com/archives/2009/04/dear-aht-some-dude-in-connecticut-is-ripping-you-off.html

This did not take away from my enjoyment of the burger as much as my impression of Max’s once creative leadership in the Hartford areas food scene. I totally agree that Max Burger will fill a niche in the center but I felt like It was designed for the “MAX” customer ( 35-55 single OR married but NO CHILDREN) I mean they want $27 for the Allagash Triple when Plan B sells the same bottle for $18. Is there a reason why I should pay $9 more because I’m at Max’s? It was like being at The Oyster bar rather than a burger joint. The tables are so close together and I felt like I was under scrutiny by the other customers. I am glad that we did not bring our children. I wonder how that would play out.

Overall it was solid for what it is. I am not saying that I won’t go back but I do have to say that I can lose track of time sitting at Plan b with friends eating exceptional burgers and drinking beer. I can also totally enjoy myself with my wife and children at Counter Burger without being pressured to give up my seat or spend more money.
SO if my friends ask me to go back I would but it is not my first choice.

Ben said...

Well said. Interesting to see that link about the Fatty being a rip-off.